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Poached Asparagus, Tarragon Chopped Egg, Grain Mustard Sauce

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Each spring I consider the proximity of the Easter and Passover holidays and the ways in which their two cultures intersect in the life of our city. Surely there are dishes that could grace both the Easter and Passover tables. This year the holidays fall from early to mid-April, when the new season’s vegetables have yet to be harvested. Yet, we are none the less hungry for a change in tone. I’m offering a trio of vegetable dishes that are a feast all their own. While they would also make delicious accompaniments to a roasted side of salmon, a chicken, or even a paschal lamb. I begin with asparagus and eggs, as I can’t imagine a spring menu without this classic pairing and harbingers of the season. The bright, bold pink of the red beet and pearl couscous salad is as pretty as any easter frock. Finally, the sweet roasted carrots offer a bridge between winter and spring and have a hint of the tzimmes that traditionally graces many a Passover dinner.

RECIPE: POACHED ASPARAGUS, TARRAGON CHOPPED EGG, GRAIN MUSTARD SAUCE

Serves 4-6

I can’t imagine a spring menu without asparagus or eggs, both harbingers of the season and also a classic pairing.

Three key steps to asparagus success: peeling, salting, icing. I like jumbo asparagus for their heft. Use a harp peeler to peel the outer layer from the bottom half of the stalk, which will make it tender, as opposed to stringy, and enables you to use more of the stalk. Trim off the woody very tough bottoms. Salt the poaching water generously, so that it tastes like sea water. Finally, plunging poached asparagus into ice water as soon as they are cooked, stops the cooking process immediately, preserving the vegetable’s bright green color and firmness. Once cooled, drain on cloth or paper towel. Very lightly coating the asparagus with a drop of olive oil just before serving gives them an appealing sheen.

As for the mayonnaise, I eagerly encourage you to whip up a homemade batch to avoid the sugar and emulsifiers in commercial versions. What a difference. No matter which route you choose, brighten the mayonnaise with freshly squeezed lemon juice, mustard and grain mustard.  My recipe quantities are just a starting point for making the sauce your own. The grain mustard seeds add a flavor and texture pop.

Ingredients

  • 20 pieces jumbo green asparagus, peeled, trimmed, poached (1.25 lbs approx.)
  • 1 tsp olive oil, to coat cooked asparagus
  • 2 eggs hard boiled, peeled, coarsely chopped
  • 2 Tbsp Fresh tarragon, stemmed, coarsely chopped
  • 1 cup mayonnaise, preferably home made
  • ½ tsp lemon zest
  • 2 tsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 Tbsp whole grain Dijon mustard
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Procedure

  1. Toss poached asparagus with a few drops of olive oil to coat lightly. Set aside. If preparing asparagus ahead of time, remove from refrigerator at least one hour before serving. Combine chopped hard boiled egg with lemon zest and tarragon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  2. Combine mayonnaise with lemon juice, mustard and grain mustard. Season with salt and pepper to taste. If you prefer a more liquid version, don’t hesitate to whisk in some water and then adjust the seasoning.
  3. On a serving platter, arrange chopped egg around the asparagus. You may choose to pour some of the sauce over the asparagus and serve the remainder on the side. I’m confident your guests will want to add more.
 

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